C P Rajendran talks to Ornella Iannuzi, award winning Jewellery designed based in London. Her one-of-a-kind jewellery is the craze among the fashion conscious women all over the world. She talks about how she has started, the inspiration and about her award winning collection 2015:
Tell us about your background and how you have become a jewellery designer?
I was studying design and applied arts for my bachelor and I discovered René Lalique’s jewellery while doing some research on Art Nouveau. I totally fall in love with the beauty of his artworks and with what jewellery could be as a body adornment or independent work of art. So I decided to go and study jewellery after my bachelor and it’s been over 10 years that I am practicing jewellery now. I launched my own business in 2008.
Image Courtesy:Ascot style
Who would your biggest influence as a jewellery designer?
René Lalique is obvisouly my first influence, and along the way I discovered the work of Jean Vendôme, Andrew Grima, and Kevin Coates, which all have resonated with my aesthetic and sensibility. I have been quite influenced by Van Cleef and Arpels too since I have spent a short period working there as a designer.
What is the main quality that you can judge a piece of jewellery designed by you?
My design aesthetic is a mixture of high-fashion and avant-garde, with a strong sculptural aspect and a certain attraction for the unusual. I usually give great importance to details in all my pieces. My one-off “Fine Art Jewellery” pieces are very bold and dramatic; they are true powerful statement pieces with high-quality of craftsmanship and innovative use of materials.
Image Courtesy:Canary Wharf style
How does the design process work?
Most of the time, it starts with the main center stone or natural element selected. I then “build” the design around it in wax like a sculptor. The wax is then cast in metal and this is when I would do all the details in terms of texture, colours, and finally set the stones.
What do you find more challenging as a jewellery designer?
The most challenging part is to stay “wise” in design, as a jewel needs to be worn and there are dimensions and essentially weight constraints to respect… Also, as I use mostly uncut stones, I am always facing technical challenges on how to mount or set them.
What inspires you when you design?
Nature is my greatest source of inspiration and each collection that I have created so far echoes to a particular environment, such as the sea, the forest, or the mountains. I am very interested by how things grow or form naturally. I look a lot into details of the materials that I use and sometimes the inspiration comes directly from these.
Image Courtesy: Designer Ornella Ianuzzi
Do you design keeping in mind any specific customer?
When I make a bespoke piece, yes of course! The client who commissioned me is definitely in my mind !
Do you have a favourite jewellery designer and why?
Kevin Coates is really my “Jewellery heroe”. I love the intricacy of his jewels, the way he combines materials, the quality of his craftsmanship, and the story behind each jewel ! He is a true Artist !
I also like the jewellery from JAR for the complexity and beauty of the craftsmanship.
Please tell me about the award winning collections for the best jewellery designer of London 2015 ?
“Rock It!” is my new Prêt-à-Porter range which I launched this year. It is a fine jewellery collection with an edge, inspired by mineral crystallization. It still reflects my signature style but is adapted for daily wear. All the pieces are made in 18k gold and set with diamonds, with some designs including opals which are free to move within their setting. So the range really plays with the light and colours, and offer distinctive precious jewellery for women who like to stand out in the crowd
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